- The LaST Upgrade -

PART 4 - Keyboard

Created 2008 - Last updated December 15, 2016


Here I found a nice keyboard which had not gone a yuck yellow shade. Time to get to work!


First off turning the keyboard over and taking out all the screws.


If done really carefully you can normally dismantle without the "cups" falling off, though if they do , no worries. Notice however on the PCB that 2 of the cups are missing by default. So if your cups fall off then you need to know which 2 are supposed to be missing else you will spend hours looking for 2 cups which were not there in the first place!

I decided to put all the screws in a small pot, that way I can loose the whole lot in one go rather than the odd one or two ;-)

The plastic keys as a whole got left to soak in warm washing up water and given a good clean with a soft brush.


The Mouse/Joystick ports normally break over time, so a must to resolder these pins even if they look ok.



All assembled back together and looks like its just come off the production line. Not bad for a 25 year old item :-)



The following I saw as a good edition of changing the LED's. The follow images & information are courtesy from Spiny.org




Hi Guys,
here are a few pics on how I replaced the LEDs in my FM keyboard. I did this purely for fun, as it was something I wanted to do years ago as a few of my friends had done this mod to their STs and I was always jealous as back then blue LEDs were pretty rare. As they are now literally pence to buy, I've finally got round to it :)

I've kept the old LEDs, so I can go back to 'stock' if the mood takes me...

First, remove the keyboard, and support it somehow:


Then take out all the screws, including the three under the plastic:


And the two over the port cover:


There are 27 little screws and two bigger ones.


Carefully lift the circuit board up and over. If you are lucky, the cups will stay in place, but probably half will be stuck to the board. Move them back to the keys.


Now is a good time to check for dry solder on the mouse/joystick ports too - mine looked a bit suspect, so did a quick reflow with the soldering iron.


The factory LEDs are surface mounted on this board (on my STe they were put through the board) so bend your new LED to the same approximate shape.


Soldered on:


The holes will need enlarging too, I used a small drill.


Make sure all the caps are back in place, but don't worry about this missing one, it's supposed to be missing, then carefully put the board back on, making sure the LEDs are fed through the new holes


After putting all the screws back in, it should look something like this:


Power on test with no cover - very bright and blue!


Cover in place, nice :)

Twenty minutes work for a new 'look' :)