Guessing it's something to do with the crystal on top of th MMU?

Greetings from the UK

3D printed gears are best done in Nylon. ABS and PLA aren't suitable materials unless the gears are slow moving and then I would use PLA as ABS would wear out pretty fast, it's too pliable. Hmm interesting, I'd not considered nylon, but it makes a lot of sense. I'm surprised ABS would be too pliabl...

PhilC wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 21, 2020 7:22 pm

You never know @PaulJ , I might get my third one completed before @rubber_jonnie as well?

To be fair, mine is finished, it's just not fully functioning yet

Hmmm, for overall strength pf the part I'd probably go with ABS, but if you don't care and just want to print it to try it out, then I'd go wit PLA.

However, if you're calibrating and doing a first print, I'd probably aim for a simpler object. My printer came with a calibration object to use.

No, I do needd to crack on with it, just had bigger projects on. I will complete at some point.

What did you get? I found it difficult to fault find with the usb scope. Having to swap between that window, the pdf drawing, data sheet etc etc, also if it's a bit faster you'll also benefit. I've bought one of these: https://www.owon.co.uk/product-page/sds1022 Though I managed to find it about £5...

Ok I powered on and get a stable white screen, so troubleshooting is the next thing to do. I suppose in a way it's good,as I'm generating a display of some sort, and it's nice and bright. But I had a bit of an "Oh crap" moment too. Pin 38 (GND) on the cartridge port goes up to R13.Somehow the tails ...

PhilC wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 18, 2020 8:48 pm

Looking forward to seeing you've got it up and running @rubber_jonnie

Me too. Hopefully will find out tomorrow!!

Would have done it tonight, but we had plans!

I've waited this long, I can wait a bit longer.

@PhilC thanks