exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

I tested one of these drives today. It supports 11S/83T & 22S/83T (Tested in FCOPY PRO)

DEFAULT IS DS1.


CHANGE TO DS0 FOR ATARI USE.


I ALSO SOLDER A 0805 10uF CAP ACROSS THE 5V RAIL ON ALL MY DRIVES.


LOCATION FOR HD WIRE SELECT


WARNING! DO NOT UNDO THESE SCREWS! I PUT SOME THREAD LOCK ON THEM JUST TO BE SAFE!

If you do, it will upset the head alignment and you will spend the next 2 hours trying to get to all aligned again

Hi, I did this modification, floppy read disk, but no write and no possible to finish formatting. is it necessary to connect HDWIRE somewhere?

RADO wrote: ↑Sun May 21, 2023 9:17 pm Hi, I did this modification, floppy read disk, but no write and no possible to finish formatting. is it necessary to connect HDWIRE somewhere?

HD wire is needed if using 1.44MB floppies and one of my 1.44MB floppy upgrade kits. Otherwise your limited to the basic 720K type formats.

I'm wondering if anyone could help me out and answer the following in regard to an Alps DF354NO64D. (The drive is slightly different in layout, but it basically looks like the same drive as in Exxo's pictures).

1st question:

Exxo's picture and instruction mention putting a 10uF cap across the 5v rail, however, on the model I have; I de-soldered the solder joint between both pins, but they are both still physically connected on the PCB copper. So is there any point in fitting a 10uf Cap? (The copper connection is too thick to cut/break)

2nd question:

The original floppy drive in my ST have both the data and power connectors transverse, compared to the Alps (and standard floppy drives). Is it a simple matter of twisting the data cable? Or should I get a custom cable made.

3rd question:

Is there a 3D print for an Alps to ST case button? (I can't find anything on the usual 3D print sites).

Thanks

keithamiga1200 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 2:09 pm So is there any point in fitting a 10uf Cap? (The copper connection is too thick to cut/break

Not sure why you mention cutting tracks. The cap is across 0v and 5v. It's there for stability of failing caps and helps reduce poor reaction times of PSUs. Really the value should be a lot higher.

. Is it a simple matter of twisting the data cable? Or should I get a custom cable made.

That's up to you which method you use.

Is there a 3D print for an Alps to ST case button? (I can't find anything on the usual 3D print sites).

Not that I'm aware of. I'm skeptical a 3D printed part would even be strong enough.

Thanks for the speedy reply.
Update:

The drive didn't work.I noticed the model's main IC has an additional 4 pins.

1) Frozen at boot up (White screen).
2) Drive was clicking (Like an Amiga).