exxos's Atari, Amiga & retro forum

Forgottenmyname wrote: ↑Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:32 pm Actually checked that after I posted earlier, so looks like the osc has died.

Damn, What is the number on it ? There was some 3.3V ones which seemed to work fine on 5V.. though I got the 5V ones for the production runs just to be safe..

Need better glasses to read that one!

Cfps-73 1802tj

Forgottenmyname wrote: ↑Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:39 pm Need better glasses to read that one!

Cfps-73 1802tj

ahhh oops, well 3.3V then.. I can send you a new one, but might be a few days before I get chance to post it.

Thanks, no rush at all.

Just wondering about the best way to remove the faulty one, presuming the heat could have an effect on the cpu soldering?

What do you think?

Forgottenmyname wrote: ↑Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:47 pm Just wondering about the best way to remove the faulty one, presuming the heat could have an effect on the cpu soldering?

What do you think?

If you put a bit of flux around it, I use a small gas soldering iron and just circle around it and it comes off easily... If something you can't easily do then just send it back..

Ok, no gas iron but can do it with hot air, so will give it a go with that.

Got plenty of solder paste and flux on the shelf.

Thanks.

Forgottenmyname wrote: ↑Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:02 pm Ok, no gas iron but can do it with hot air, so will give it a go with that.

Got plenty of solder paste and flux on the shelf.

ok, but don't get anything else hot on the board else likely end in bad joints or melted header pins!

I have a shed load of kapton tape, hopefully that'll help

As usual some of my planned activities fell by the wayside due to running into other Atari related issues.

However, the install of the new 40Mhz booster was not one of them!!

Here you can see the board installed and running, tied down to 8Mhz for the first run:
Once running, I removed the link to ground that tied it to 8Mhz, then what was I to do, but benchmark it, so here is a direct comparison using GEMBench, of my 32Mhz MK1 booster vs my MK1.5 at 40Mhz.

Here's 32Mhz first:
And here's 40Mhz:
As you can see, there is quite a noticeable difference, so I have to say well done to exxos for doing such a good job

The only problem I ran into was gettinin it into the slot, as I bent a single pin on the fist attempt. It was a bit odd because all of the other pins went in no problem, apart from one at the top end of the left hand row.

Luckily it was a minor task to remove the booster and straighten the pin, and everything went in smooothly on the 2nd attempt.

Oviously more testing is required, like the almost obligatory Elite 2 test, and a GB6 burn in test, but I'm confident it will run well.

The final piece of the puzzle will be to fit a switch so I can flip between 8Mhz and 40Mhz.

I'll report more as I get round to doing it.

If you run the new booster do all tests, then load the STE20632 file, then you should see the speed difference between 32MHz and 40MHz.