Issue D modules are on their way far and wide. Documentation will follow! Next weekend I am going to an Acorn Users Group meetup and so it'll be next week before I can start on comprehensive instructions.
Here are some notes to get started.
Power from USB to program or ROM socket. Power is fed through diodes so USB power and target power are not directly connected.
Pinout as per PC type motherboard connectors. Solder headers/wires or poke in pins on a cable (I think there is a photo of me doing that on here or stardot can't remember...). The module is in-system programmable via the USB. I use SmarTTY v3 on the PC. It is a lot faster than TeraTerm (which is a bit buggy with USB serial it seems). Not sure what my Mac testers have been using...
Default is JEDEC 27C400 style pinout. If using a Commodore Amiga 500 rev 3/5 then blob the /JEDEC jumper. A18 and A19 are on pads for 27C800/160 solder a wire to a pin and poke it in the socket (pin 1 A18, pin 42 A19 IIRC) - or poke the wire in! R is the ROM switch. Connect to /RST on most systems. If you want to use a switch then connect one to ground and enable the pull-up in the software config. SP is spare GPIO you can connect a LED (or power LED). Open drain output (active low) so 5v feeds the LED & choose a suitable series resistor for 20mA max. A17 pad also connects to the A17 pin. Don't enable pull-ups on pins connected to 5v supplies.
Data outputs are 5v CMOS so no need for pull ups on machines that normally need them with an EPROM (e.g. rev 5 Amiga 500)
Link A18 & A19 (for 27C400 mode) between the two modules. Set one as Master and one as Slave in the menu options. Hook /RST to the Master. Master will manage the ROM switching.
Pin 1 is marked with a 1 and is the opposite end to the USB. Remember if installing in a 42 pin socket that pin 1 & 42 will be empty in the ROM socket. Try not to push on the ICs when you insert it. I put some foam under my thumbs and push on the pins (sharp without the foam!).
Carefully pry it out against the socket. I use two super cheap plastic spudgers. Lift each end 0.5mm at a time until it is free.
Fire up a terminal and press H. Module has byte swap program modes most files for emulators etc are Intel order so you'll need byteswap on 68K platforms usually. You must commit the options in the options menu after changing them - this writes them to FLASH.
Be careful in the service menu - there be dragons that could brick your module!
Use the preset wizard in the option menu as this will set the correct settings for 95% of users. Commit the options to FLASH when happy (or it will forget them
Should be <90ns so faster than the BITD EPROMs. The modules with the 55ns FLASH chips are faster still.
I've connected this to the RESET line on my machines.
>1.5s NEXT ROM image
>3s GOTO ROM 0, tap RESET n times for ROM n
>5s oops... didn't mean to change
If a LED is attached then intensity changes at the time thresholds.
Note some machines (e.g.Amiga) have a monostable on the reset so you get a 0.5s minimum reset - if tap n times doesn't seem to work try a bit slower.
You can switch from the USB menu with "w". You can set the cold boot ROM image # in the menu. You can set it to autosave the ROM number so next power on will be as per last power off.
Do NOT put it in an EPROM programmer. The A9 ID voltage and Vpp will do damage.
So far I've done 1 adapter for an Acorn Master. Will do one for a 27C1024 pinout. I plan on making all adapters open source.